Bailyaege. Boleyage. Booleyage. Tomayto. Tomahto. If you can’t pronounce the popular hair color technique balayage, then welcome to the club. Still, more difficult than hair color linguistics is knowing the difference between the hottest hair color techniques. Balayage, highlights, baby lights, lowlights—it’s a lot to process.
Don’t worry. By your next salon appointment, you’ll know which hair color service may be right for you. We asked Cloud 9 Salon & Spa stylists Nathan Dean and Cindy Downes to explain the most common hair-lightening techniques. Below, they answer key questions about balayage, highlights, babylights, lowlights, and how to choose between them.
What exactly are traditional highlights?
Cindy: Traditional highlights are sections of hair that are woven and lightened from root to ends. Some natural hair is left between the highlighted sections. The hair is usually placed in foils so each section stays separate and the result looks even.
What is balayage and the technique behind it?
Nathan: Balayage is a technique where color is painted onto selected strands of hair without using traditional foils. It can create a warmer, sun-lightened effect, especially on darker blonde hair. The goal is to create a natural-looking result similar to hair that has been lightened by the sun.
Cindy: Balayage is a freehand painting technique that creates a blended, multi-tonal, sun-kissed result. Lighter pieces are placed throughout the hair, starting finer near the top and becoming more noticeable through the mid-lengths and ends.
Unlike highlights, it’s usually a process without foils (but some techniques do incorporate a film somewhat like saran wrap in order to achieve lighter results).
What are lowlights?
Cindy: Lowlights use a similar technique to highlights, but a darker color is added to create more dimension. They are often used when repeated highlighting has made the hair look too light or flat. Lowlights help bring back depth and contrast.
Nathan: Lowlights are strands of hair colored to match or go darker than the natural base color. They add depth and should not be confused with darker highlights. Unlike highlights, lowlights do not use a lightening process.
What are babylights?
Nathan: Babylights are very fine highlights designed to blend softly into the natural base color. They create a subtle, bright effect rather than strong contrast. They can also be combined with more noticeable highlights through the mid-lengths and ends.
Cindy: Babylights are superfine highlights. Smaller sections of hair are placed in each foil, with smaller gaps between them. This creates a soft, multi-tonal blend similar to naturally sun-kissed hair.
Babylights can also be added to a balayage service around the hairline and parting, where hair naturally tends to look lighter.
So, what is the actual difference between traditional highlights and balayage?
Cindy: Balayage is a more visual and personalized technique than traditional highlights. Instead of following a fixed sectioning pattern, the colorist chooses where to place lighter pieces. This helps complement the haircut, facial features, and skin tone for a more natural result.
Nathan: The main difference is that balayage is usually applied without traditional foils or wraps, while highlights typically use foils to separate the lightened sections.
How can I tell which one—highlights or balayage—is better for my hair?
Nathan: The best choice depends on your starting hair color and the result you want. Balayage works well for a soft, blended look. Traditional foiled highlights offer more control when lifting darker hair and can help manage red or orange undertones.
Cindy: This is something best discussed with your hair colorist ahead of a color appointment. It might be that a mix of techniques is best for you. It totally depends on what kind of result you want and how much maintenance you are willing to put in.
For traditional highlights, what’s the maintenance like, and how often do I need to visit the salon?
Cindy: Traditional highlights need to be topped up every 4-6 weeks as the grow-out can be really obvious. Baby-lights grow out a little softer so can be pushed to every 8 weeks normally.
For balayage, what’s the maintenance like and how often do I need to visit the salon?
Nathan: Balayage maintenance varies from person to person. Many clients return about every four months for a top-up. We also recommend a toner around every eight weeks because the tone can fade over time, especially after exposure to sun or pool water.
Schedule a highlighting appointment at Cloud 9 Salon and Spa here!
